Button mushrooms once dominated many produce aisles. Today, shoppers may encounter dozens of cultivated and wild varieties, sold fresh, dried, frozen or canned. Even a small amount of a strongly flavored mushroom can change the character of a dish.
Everyday cultivated mushrooms
Button, cremini and portobello
White button mushrooms, brown cremini and portobellos are all forms of Agaricus bisporus. Buttons are harvested young and have a mild flavor that becomes more savory when cooked. Cremini are brown, slightly firmer and more pronounced in flavor. Portobellos are mature cremini with broad caps and exposed dark gills; their substantial texture suits roasting and grilling.
Enoki (enokitake)
Enoki have tiny ivory caps and long, slender stems joined at the base. Their delicate flavor and crisp texture work well in soups, noodle dishes and quick sautés. Cultivated enoki should be cooked thoroughly rather than eaten raw.
Oyster mushrooms
Off-white, gray, yellow or pink oyster mushrooms form layered clusters. Their tender caps cook quickly and offer a mild, subtly savory flavor. They work especially well in stir-fries, sautés and soups.
Shiitake
Shiitake have brown caps, a firm texture and a deep savory taste with a lightly peppery finish. Fresh and dried forms are widely available. Remove tough stems before cooking; they can be reserved to flavor stock and then discarded.
Maitake (hen-of-the-woods)
Maitake grow in ruffled clusters and have a rich, woodsy taste. Cultivated versions are widely available fresh or dried. The fronds can be separated for roasting, sautéing or adding to soups.
Straw mushrooms
Small straw mushrooms are familiar in stir-fries and soups. Canned versions are common, while dried varieties generally have a more concentrated flavor. Drain and rinse canned mushrooms before adding them to a dish.
Wild and specialty varieties
Chanterelles
This group includes trumpet-shaped mushrooms with rippled caps in shades from pale cream and gold to dark gray. Chanterelles are known for a fruity aroma and a lightly peppery taste. They are usually gathered wild rather than cultivated.
Chicken-of-the-woods
Not to be confused with hen-of-the-woods, this mushroom grows in bright yellow-to-orange shelves on trees. Young specimens can have a substantial texture, but wild harvesting requires expert identification because look-alikes and individual reactions are possible.
Morels
Morels have distinctive conical, honeycombed caps and an intense earthy flavor. Their many crevices need careful cleaning. True morels must be correctly identified and thoroughly cooked; they should never be eaten raw.
Porcini (king bolete or cèpe)
Porcini have stout stems and a spongy pore surface beneath their brown caps rather than gills. Their nutty, woodsy flavor is particularly concentrated when dried. Dried slices and powder can add umami to sauces, risotto, soups and other savory dishes.
Truffles
Truffles are underground fungi associated with tree roots. Their powerful aroma means a small amount can season an entire dish. Fresh truffles are seasonal and perishable, while preserved products vary considerably in flavor and composition.
Distinctive ingredients from global kitchens
Huitlacoche
Also called corn smut, huitlacoche is a fungus that grows on corn and has long been used in Mexican cooking. Its complex savory and earthy flavor suits tacos, quesadillas, soups and sauces. It may be sold fresh, frozen or canned.
Wood ears
Wood ears have a flexible, slightly gelatinous and pleasantly crunchy texture. Fresh and dried forms are used in stir-fries, noodle dishes, soups and stews. Dried wood ears expand substantially when soaked, so follow package directions and cook them thoroughly.
Reishi
Reishi are tough and bitter rather than a typical culinary mushroom. They are commonly sold as dried products or supplements. Claims about immune effects do not establish that a product can prevent or treat disease, and concentrated preparations may interact with medicines. Discuss supplement use with a qualified clinician or pharmacist.
Buying, storing and cooking
Choose fresh mushrooms that look plump and feel firm, without slimy surfaces or a strong unpleasant odor. Refrigerate them in breathable packaging and use them promptly. Clean with a soft brush or a brief rinse, then dry well. Because mushrooms absorb water, avoid prolonged soaking unless rehydrating a dried variety.
Dried mushrooms should be kept sealed in a cool, dry place. Rehydrate them according to package directions, strain any soaking liquid carefully if using it in a recipe, and cook the mushrooms fully. Storage life and preparation requirements vary by product, so the label is the best guide.